Of all insect species, the honey bee is perhaps the most beneficial. There is, of course, honey: about 200 million pounds of it is produced commercially each year. But the honey bee makes its greatest contribution by pollinating plants. More than one half of all fruit and vegetable crops are pollinated by honey bees. Wasps contribute by preying on many pest insects harmful to crops. Without bees and wasps, our menu would be very limited.

Unfortunately, bees and wasps can be a threat to human health. Each year, 50 to 100 people die from bee and wasp stings. Most die from an allergic reaction to venom within one hour of the sting. About 1 percent of the population is allergic to bee and wasp venom. Those allergic to stings should carry emergency epinephrine injection kits as directed by their doctors.

Identification

Though related, bees and wasps differ in important ways. Most wasps have a narrow “waistline” where the front portion of the abdomen tapers to become a small tube as it attaches to the middle body section, the thorax. Bees do not have this narrowing of the abdomen. Another difference is that bees feed nectar and pollen to their young (larvae), while wasps feed their larvae insects and spiders. Yellowjackets and hornets also scavenge food including fruit, sweets, meats and carrion.

One thing bees and wasps have in common is that some species are solitary and others are social. A solitary bee or wasp lives alone, making its own nest and raising its own larvae. Individuals of social species live together in colonies consisting of many “workers” and one or more “queens.” The workers specialize in different tasks, and cooperate to raise the queen’s offspring. These species should be considered a greater threat to humans than solitary species. This is because social species, such as honey bees and yellowjackets, will defend an entire colony, and have more individuals available to do so. Solitary species, such as mud dauber wasps, defend their nest alone.

Bees

Honey Bee (Apis mellifera)

The honey bee is a half-inch long, hairy, honey brown insect. They should not be confused with yellowjackets, which are black and bright yellow wasps. Honey bees live in extra large colonies of up to 50,000 individuals. Their colonies can grow this large because they survive winter, even in northern states. The nest consists of several tiers or “combs” made of beeswax. It is located in cavities of trees, rock formations and buildings. In spring, a colony may produce a “swarm.” This occurs when a newly produced queen flies off with about half the colony’s worker bees to establish a new colony. These swarms often come to rest on trees and houses while scout bees search for a good spot for a new nest. If possible, such swarms should be tolerated, as they are in transit and usually leave within two to four days.

Bumble Bee (Bombus spp.)

The familiar buzzing, fuzzy yellow and black striped bumble bee is unmistakable. Up to 200, ½- to 1-inch long bumble bees inhabit nests in old rodent burrows, under porches and in wall voids.

Carpenter Bee (Xylocopa virginica)

This bee is a bumble bee look-alike that has a shiny, all-black abdomen, whereas the bumble bee’s abdomen is fuzzy, black and yellow. Unlike bumble bees, carpenter bees are solitary. Females chew ½-inch diameter holes in wood and bore tunnels that run several inches into the wood. Inside, eggs are laid and the resulting larvae develop on a mixture of pollen and nectar. Males guard the nest by buzzing intruders, but their defense is a bluff: male bees cannot sting.

Wasps

Paper Wasps (Polistes spp.)

Paper wasps are perhaps the most common wasps around structures. They are also known as “umbrella wasps” because their nests look like umbrellas hanging upside-down from eaves and overhangs. Common species include the northern paper wasp (P. fuscatus), a black to reddish-brown wasp up to ¾-inch long, and the European paper wasp (P. dominula) which is black and yellow, resembling a yellowjacket. A paper wasp nest is a single comb of hexagonal cells made of a papery material the wasps form by chewing wood and mixing it with saliva. Larger nests can harbor up to 75 paper wasps including larvae and pupae developing within the cells. To feed the larvae, paper wasps capture insects, especially caterpillars. Late in the year, colonies of paper wasps, yellowjackets and hornets produce new queens that abandon the nest (it will not be reused) and seek shelter for winter. Many find their way into structures and are later seen crawling sluggishly across the floor when temperatures rise in late winter or early spring.

Yellowjackets (Vespula spp., Paravespula spp.)

More people are stung by yellowjackets than any other type of wasp or bee. Notoriously aggressive, the yellowjacket’s shiny yellow and black striped abdomen is an unmistakable warning. Often mistakenly called “bees,” yellowjackets are in fact wasps. They construct paper nests up to several feet across that contain combs arranged like the floors of a building covered by a papery envelope. Up to 3,000 (many more in warmer states) wasps can be present in the yellowjacket colony. Nests of the Eastern yellowjacket (Vespula maculifrons) are located in the ground, while the German yellowjacket (Paravespula germanica) nests in cavities including crawlspaces, attics and wall voids. Adults consume nectar and sweets, but feed the larvae on captured insects. When temperatures cool in late summer, yellowjacket numbers peak just as their insect food supply begins to decline. They scavenge more aggressively at this time, taking food from trash containers and picnickers. When disturbed, some yellowjackets sting repeatedly, while others sting and lose their stingers as do honey bees.

Hornets (Dolichovespula maculata and Vespa crabro)

The so-called bald-faced hornet (Dolichovespula maculata), about ¾-inch long, black and white, with white face, is actually a larger yellowjacket species. Its nest is the familiar basketball-size papery oval hanging from tree limbs and sometimes structures. Colonies are relatively small, containing up to 700 wasps. An even larger wasp is the European hornet(Vespa crabro). This is a true hornet, more than an inch long and reddish brown in color with dull orange stripes. Nests occur in trees and in attics and wall voids of structures near forested areas.

Mud Daubers (Sceliphron caementarium, Chalybion californicum, Tropoxylon spp.)

Mud dauber wasps are named for their habit of constructing tubular nests of mud plastered on the exterior surfaces of structures. Inside the nest, these wasps place spiders they have paralyzed by stinging, as food for their larvae. Mud daubers are solitary wasps about ¾-inch long. Our common mud dauber (S. caementarium) is brownish-black with yellow markings. Its nests are about 2 inches long. Organ pipe mud daubers(Tropoxylon spp.) are black and construct nests that can be a foot long and resemble the pipes of a pipe organ. The blue mud dauber (C. californicum) is a shiny, dark blue wasp that lays its eggs in the nests of other mud daubers.

Cicada Killer (Sphecius speciosus)

Up to 1.5 inches long, this is the largest wasp in the Midwest. Cicada killers are mostly black with yellow markings on the abdomen. This solitary species nests in small burrows. The female searches trees for a cicada, stings it and tucks the paralyzed cicada under its body. The wasp either drags the cicada to its burrow, or launches itself from a tree and glides back to the burrow. Inside it lays an egg on the cicada, then covers the burrow with soil. The stingless male guards the nest. Larvae consume the paralyzed cicada and emerge as adult wasps the following spring.

Stay away from honey bee colonies. Honey bees nest in a wide variety of locations, such as pipes, holes, animal burrows or even in cavities within saguaro cacti or trees. Be alert. Bees living in an established colony will make a “beeline” for the entrance - flying in and out of an opening in a very regular pattern. Listen for buzzing sounds. Be especially alert when climbing, because honey bees often nest under rocks or within rock crevices. Don't put your hands where you can't see them.

Not all honey bees you see are a potential threat. Honey bees often visit campsites for water or sweets (especially soda containers) or may be seen visiting flowers for nectar. Bees gathering food or water are called "foraging" bees. As long as they are away from the nest, honey bees are not overly defensive. They will only sting if stepped on or trapped in some way. However, a large number of honey bees foraging in one area may indicate a colony is nearby. If you intend to camp in the area, look around for the colony first. If you know you are allergic to bee stings, always have someone else with you when doing outdoor activities.

If you find a colony of bees, leave them alone and keep others away. Do not shoot, throw rocks at, try to burn or otherwise disturb the bees. Do not attempt to control them with aerosol sprays. If the colony is near a trail or near areas frequently used by humans, notify your local Forest Service, Game and Fish Department or Parks and Recreation Department.  Honey bee colonies vary in behavior over time, especially with changes in age and season. You may pass the same colony for weeks, and then one day provoke them unexpectedly. Don't EVER disturb or tease bees, and do not try to remove bees yourself.

Wear appropriate clothing. When hiking in the wilderness, wear light-colored clothing. Honeybees may be aggravated by textures and colors that resemble the characteristics of their natural predators (such as bears and skunks). When they defend their nests, Honey bees will target dark, leathery, or furry objects and will attack the most sensitive areas including the eyes, ears, and nose. 

Avoid wearing scents of any sort when hiking or working outside. Honey bees communicate with one another using pheromones (scents) and are quite sensitive to odors. Avoid strongly scented shampoo, soaps, and perfumes. Citrus odors are also known to aggravate honeybees. 

Be particularly careful when using any machinery that produces sound vibrations or loud noises. Bees are alarmed by the vibration and/or loud noises produced by equipment such as chain saws, weed eaters, lawn mowers, tractors or electric generators. Again, check your environment before you begin operating noisy equipment.

Pet safety. When hiking it is best to keep your dog on a leash or under close control. An animal bounding through the brush is likely to disturb a colony and be attacked. When the animal returns to its owner, it will bring the attacking bees with it. If your animals or pets are being stung, follow the above mentioned procedures of finding shelter, and covering vulnerable areas. Don't pen, tie, or tether animals near known bee hives or nests. Keep animals away from apiaries and bee nests. 

Remember these important steps if you encounter aggressive bees:

• RUN away quickly. Do not stop to help others. Small children and the disabled may need some assistance. As you are running, pull your shirt up over your head or use your arms to protect your face. This will help keep the bees from targeting the sensitive areas around your eyes, nose and ears.
   
• Do not swat at the bees or flail your arms. Bees are  aggravated by movement and crushed bees emit a smell that will attract more bees.
   
• Continue to RUN towards an enclosed shelter, such as a vehicle or building. A few bees may follow you indoors but they will attempt to fly to windows. Running to dark or shady spots may help to confuse the bees. Do not jump into water. The bees will wait for you to come up for air. If you are trapped for some reason, cover up with blankets, sleeping bags, clothes, or whatever else is immediately available.
   
• Once you have reached shelter or outrun the bees, remove all stingers. When a honey bee stings, it leaves its stinger in the skin. This kills the honey bee so it can't sting again, but it also means that venom continues to enter into the wound for a short time.
  Do not pull stingers out with tweezers or your fingers. This will only squeeze more venom into the wound. Instead, scrape the stinger out sideways using your fingernail, the edge of a credit card, a dull knife blade or other straight-edged object.
   
• If you see someone being attacked by bees, encourage them to run away or seek shelter. Do not attempt to rescue them yourself. Call 911 to report a serious stinging attack. The emergency response personnel in your area have probably been trained to handle bee attacks.

There are a wide range of reactions to honey bee venom. A normal healthy reaction may include swelling or redness in the general area where stung, and a feeling of heat or itchiness. Swelling can sometimes be severe. For instance, if stung on the finger, the arm may be swollen even up to the elbow. Swelling such as this is fairly common, even though it may be alarming. Normal swelling may last up to a few days. During the days following a stinging incident, the wound may itch. Pain may be alleviated by using a cold compress. 

• Allergic reactions can range from mild to severe. It is important to seek medical care if an allergic reaction is suspected. Symptoms can begin immediately following the sting or up to 30 minutes later and might last for hours. It is possible to have a severe allergic reaction to a bee sting that is not life-threatening. Symptoms can include hives, feeling nauseous or lightheaded, stomach cramps, vomiting, diarrhea, low blood pressure and swelling in areas other than the general sting site. For example, if stung on the left hand and the right hand or neck shows swelling you should seek medical attention immediately. Oral antihistamines can help minimize the symptoms. 
• Anaphylactic reactions include swelling of the mouth or throat, shortness of breath, difficulty in swallowing, and shock. These types of reactions typically occur within minutes or even seconds of being stung and are very rare. It is estimated that less than 1% of the population will have an anaphylactic reaction. Immediate medical attention is required.

Anaphylaxis, if treated in time, usually can be reversed by epinephrine (adrenaline) injected into the body. Individuals who are aware that they are allergic to stings should carry epinephrine in either a normal syringe (sting kit) or an auto-injector (Epi-Pen) whenever they think they might encounter stinging insects. Epinephrine is obtainable only by prescription from a physician.

The average person can safely tolerate 10 stings per pound of body weight. This means that although 500 stings can kill a child, the average adult could withstand more than 1100 stings.

Try to get the animal away from the bees WITHOUT ENDANGERING YOURSELF. Call your dog inside your house or car. Do not attempt to approach a person or an animal being stung without protective gear (such as a bee keeper's suit). If you approach an animal that is being stung, remember that an injured animal may bite or attack unexpectedly. If the animal runs to you with aggravated bees following it, you are likely to be stung.

If possible, douse the animal with soapy water. It is important to use soap and not just water. A mild solution of liquid dish detergent in water (approximately 1/2 cup soap per gallon of water) will immobilize honey bees and kill them within 60 seconds.

Covering the animal with a heavy blanket during a serious stinging incident may also discourage the bees.

Once the animal is away from bees look for stingers. When a honey bee stings, it loses its venom sac and stinger. This means the honey bee dies after it stings, but the stinger may continue to inject venom for up to a minute or until the stinger is removed. If you can see stingers on the animal, remove them by scraping them out with a credit card, knife or fingernail. Do not pull them out with tweezers or fingers because you will squeeze more venom into the animal.

If an animal has sustained numerous stings consult your veterinarian. The number of stings an animal can survive depends on its body weight, the amount of venom it received, and whether or not it is allergic to bee venom. As with humans, even one sting may be dangerous if the animal is allergic (although rare).

The best way to prevent bees from establishing a colony on your property is to not provide them with an ideal environment for survival. Bees will look for nest sites that are protected and enclosed. Honey bees nest in a wide variety of locations and may enter openings as small as 3/16-inch in diameter (about the size of a pencil eraser) as long as there is a suitable-sized cavity behind the opening for a nest. They may nest in such diverse sites as water meter boxes, under sheds, in saguaro cacti, or in overturned pots. 

Inspect your home and yard regularly for signs of bee colonies. A single bee or just a few bees in your yard does not mean you have an established colony on your property. These bees are simply foraging for food and water. Removing flowers as a source of food is not an effective bee deterrent. Look for large numbers of bees passing into and out of or hovering in front of an opening. Listen for the hum of active insects. Look low for colonies in or at ground level, and also high for colonies under eaves or in attics.
Eliminate shelter. To prevent honey bees from settling in your house or yard, you will need to be vigilant in preventing potential nesting sites.

• Caulk cracks in walls, in the foundation and in the roof.
• Fill or cover all holes 1/8-inch in diameter or larger in trees, structures and/or block walls.  
• Make sure chimneys are covered properly.
• Put small mesh screen (such as window screen) over attic vents, irrigation valve boxes and water meter box key holes.
• Remove any trash or debris that might serve as a shelter for honey bees.
• Keep shed doors tightly closed and in good repair and exercise caution when entering buildings that are not used frequently.

If you find a colony on your property, consult a bee expert. Colonies located around the house should be removed as soon as possible. Stay away from the colony and keep pets from going near the area. Do not try to remove colonies yourself! There are many qualified experts who specialize in honeybee removal. Some may even provide live removal without harming the colony.

Bees, wasps, and hornets are most abundant in the warmer months. Nests and hives may be found in trees, under roof eaves, or on equipment such as ladders.

U.S. Geographic Region

Bees, wasps, and hornets are found throughout the United States.

Employer Recommendations

Employers should protect their workers from stinging insects by training them about:

• Their risk of exposure
• Insect identification
• How to prevent exposure
• What to do if stung

Worker Recommendations

Workers should take the following steps to prevent insect stings:

• Wear light-colored, smooth-finished clothing.
• Avoid perfumed soaps, shampoos, and deodorants.
  • Don’t wear cologne or perfume.
  • Avoid bananas and banana-scented toiletries.
• Wear clean clothing and bathe daily. (Sweat may anger bees.)
• Wear clothing to cover as much of the body as possible.
• Avoid flowering plants when possible.
• Keep work areas clean. Social wasps thrive in places where humans discard food.
• Remain calm and still if a single stinging insect is flying around. (Swatting at an insect may cause it to sting.)
• If you are attacked by several stinging insects at once, run to get away from them. (Bees release a chemical when they sting, which may attract other bees.)
  • Go indoors.
  • A shaded area is better than an open area to get away from the insects.
  • If you are able to physically move out of the area, do not to attempt to jump into water. Some insects (particularly Africanized Honey Bees) are known to hover above the water, continuing to sting once you surface for air.
• If a bee comes inside your vehicle, stop the car slowly, and open all the windows.
• Workers with a history of severe allergic reactions to insect bites or stings should consider carrying an epinephrine auto injector (EpiPen) and should wear a medical identification bracelet or necklace stating their allergy.

First Aid

If a worker is stung by a bee, wasp, or hornet:

• Have someone stay with the worker to be sure that they do not have an allergic reaction.
• Wash the site with soap and water.
• Remove the stinger using gauze wiped over the area or by scraping a fingernail over the area.
  • Never squeeze the stinger or use tweezers.
• Apply ice to reduce swelling.
• Do not scratch the sting as this may increase swelling, itching, and risk of infection.